And a bit more Varanasi

December 04, 2014

And a bit more Varanasi

[Originally Dec 4, 2014]

I have seen more dead bodies in the past two weeks than my whole life combined. In fact the number of dead bodies I have seen is off the charts. We haven't been seeking out crime scenes and we aren’t in the "shady" parts of India. In fact, we see these dead bodies being marched out right on the main streets. Granted these bodies are wrapped in gold cloth, covered in red and gold tassels with flowers, strapped to bamboo boards, and being carried by 10 men chanting loudly in a funeral procession, but it is still a dead body nonetheless. You don't see these too often back home so it is a bit unnerving how often you see them here and how common place it is. A dead body when you are drinking your lassi, a dead body when you are being rowed up the Ganges, a dead body when you are buying bananas, a dead body tied to the top of a Jeep driving down the street, a dead body on the way to the train station. You name it. I guess the better question is why.

In Hinduism, the Ganges river is the most sacred river to Hindus. The river is literally believed to have come from heaven and since it came from heaven that is also the way back to heaven. And of all the places on this river the most sacred is the city of Varanasi, the Great Cremation Ground, because those who die and are cremated on the banks of the Ganges here are granted instant salvation. Varanasi is one of seven sacred cities that can provide Moksha which is liberation from rebirth, basically breaking the reincarnation cycle which explains all the dead bodies since all Hindus desire to die here in Varanasi.

Our good friend, Lizzi Edwards, when she heard about this asked us why continue on our trip at all. Since Varanasi might be the place to kick the trip and the bucket if the Hindus really did get it right. She definitely has a point. :)

Clayton and I could join the many families here and settle down, have a few kids, buy the traditional motorcycle for our little family of at least five to ride together. We could also try to understand what Hinduism is all about. (You try reading Wikipedia: “Hinduism is a diverse system of thought with beliefs spanning monotheism, polytheism, panentheism, pantheism, pandeism, monism, and atheism among others; and its concept of God is complex and depends upon each individual and the tradition and philosophy followed.” Huh?) It may take a lifetime but at least maybe we wouldn’t come back as the holy cows if we are cremated here. Funny, I don’t think our parents would like this too much.

Besides eating in India, we have been visiting the sites. One of the best known in Varanasi is the Manikarnika Ghat, the Burning Ghat. This is where the cremation actually happens. Funeral processions march down to the ghat, the body is then placed in the river to have the feet and face washes. Then the quality and quantity of wood to cremate the body is precisely measured and the body is set on top. A brief ceremony happens and off the person goes to heaven. The burning happens 24 hours a day we are told and since it is a Hindu ceremony, women are not allowed. Pictures are also not allowed so we do not have any to show you but this place really gets at all your senses so much to see and smell.

Near Varanasi there is a sacred place for Buddhists as well, Sarnath. This is where Lord Buddha gave his first sermon. Clayton and I spent a bit of time in Buddhist monasteries when we were in Nepal and Tibet four years ago. It was interesting to compare the differences between the structures and worship practices of these two religions. Buddhist temples are often very clean, peaceful and decently quiet, besides some great monk chanting of course.

We are eager to get back on our bicycle. We have spent quite a bit of time here in Varanasi, much more than we anticipated. We booked ourselves in 2AC class on the Jodhpur Express today—the train was full in this class until today which is why the delay. After this train ride of 24 hours (yes, 24 hours) we have a 6 hour “layover” in Jodhpur. Then another 6 hour train ride to Jaisalmer. We will be in an entirely different state: the desert state of Rajasthan. It is time to say goodbye to Uttar Pradesh, the state we have been in since we got to India. We are excited to see the desert, find some camels to ride and get back to cycling.