Cat-Man-Do

November 21, 2014

Cat-Man-Do

[Originally posted Nov 21, 2014]

Oh wow. Tomorrow morning is what we have been waiting for - a return to bike touring. It's been 6 weeks to the day since we rolled into Istanbul and put our bike in the corner (nobody puts Baby in a corner!). I'm thoroughly looking forward to getting back on two wheels and seeing this beautiful country from the saddle. The bicycle truly is the best way to travel.

The last six weeks have only had one tangible goal - get the rear hub issues fixed. But after a lethargic customs ordeal, a rear hub without the necessary pieces (don't get me started) and a bike shop in Kathmandu that was pretty mediocre I was left to rebuild our rear wheel all on my lonesome. First of all, huge thanks to Elizabeth and my mother for coming to visit, because not only was it great to see them and spend a week trekking, but they brought us our new rear hub. Building a bicycle wheel? It's something I've never done, but it is amazing what you are willing to figure out when you have no other options. So after a couple hours reading Sheldon Brown's website (the authority on all things bicycle) and studying our front wheel (it was my template) I set off to build our wheel. In simple terms, a wheel is just a bunch of spokes holding a rim to a hub. In more complex turns it is making sure your spokes are the correct length, choosing a lacing pattern (we did a 3 cross), adding spokes to the hub in the correct order, a repetitive series of tightening each spoke one turn, then another turn, then half a turn, then a quarter turn and then the fun task of truing (making sure it doesn't wobble and that it's round - not ovalish) the wheel. This is usually done with a truing stand, which I of course don't have so I used a 6" section of measuring tape (attached to the rear triangle with some tape) and then one of those trusty new school flossing mechanisms (not because I needed to floss, but because it has a nice straight edge). Place the straight edge up close to the wheel and spin the wheel. Where the rim hits the straight edge = a wobble. If the wobble is to the right then you loosen spokes on the right side and tighten spokes on the left side. But you have to make sure that you loosen the same amount as you tighten cause if you don't you get another problem - an oval wheel. Then you check for the biggest wobble on the left and do just the opposite. And a couple hours later (hopefully) your wheel is running true. It's easy in theory, but it takes quite a bit of work - and quite a bit more work if it is your first time doing it (my situation). I would accept congratulations for a job well done, but let's save that until we are a couple hundred miles down the road and the wheel is still working. And given that the next couple hundred miles will be the bumpiest of our ride, we are cautiously optimistic.

We met a great mechanic down the street, Gopal, who was more than helpful. For $11 we got a side view mirror, our derailleurs adjusted, 9 spare spokes (can't be too careful, lot of bad drivers out there), a bell for Katy and a screw removed from one of the eyelets in our frame (in trying to attach our rear rack I broke the head off of a screw and couldn't get it out for the life of me - but a couple hits with a hammer, some WD40 and a pair of pliers Gopal had it out in minutes). And not but least - we got a nice flag of the symbol "Om" thumbtacked to a wooden flagpole, which I made a nice little sheath for out of electrical tape so we can fly a flag behind our bike - we figure it's time we start looking as cool as we actually are. What is Om? See here.

Last thing - the other night we went to the Pashupatinath Temple, also known as the Burning Bodies temple. The Temple sits along the banks of a river and families bring their dead here for a washing in the river and then cremation. Once burnt (along with incense and flowers and a host of other things) the ashes are then swept into the river. Pretty wild experience. Women in complete tears as they watch their deceased husbands placed atop a pile of logs and then a roaring fire is lit.

Crossing our fingers on this one.

This damn screw was the source of some frustration.

My wheel truing items.

Gopal.

Maybe this would be the better way to travel.

There are some things that will always make Katy laugh.

Steamed MoMos, a real treat, 20 for $1.

Dal bhat, the meal that keeps on giving.

Bhaktapur.

Exhibit A.

Porters gotta port.

Lots of green ponds in Bhaktapur.

Incense for cremation.

The green bowls are made of leaves and serve as little boats that are sent down the river carrying incense and candles and offerings to the river gods.